Northland

Bay of Islands

A beautiful place. I opted to stay in Russell because the van park is superbly located on a hill overlooking the Bay and across to Paihia. It is a more costly option as access is only by ferry ($35 return) but Roma needed to experience a ferry ride.
They say that the best way to see the Bay of Islands is by boat so I did exactly that and enjoyed the experience (see below).

The other special place there is Waitangi where the treaty that handed NZ to England was signed and it is easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the actual site and learning the history. Forgot the camera that day so all pix are still on my phone.

Then I went on to Kerikeri and bought dolly pegs (for the grandkids) from the oldest house in NZ – again a lovely area.

West Coast

My final days in the North Island were spent in Hokianga Harbour – very picturesque, with giant sandhills but by then the strong winds had reached that area so it wasn’t worth lingering. However walking in the depth of the forests of the Kauri Coast as the wind roared overhead was much more enjoyable.

So after a few days on the campus of Kings College Auckland with Brad and Barbara Fenner (and a wonderful school camp – no kidding) Lester and I are off to the South Island to collect Roma 2.

NZ Food and other random discoveries and questions

Food is a big focus on a road trip and a well stocked fridge (and bar) is essential because you don’t always know what shopping opportunity lies ahead. NZ is generally great for food and coffee, with quirky little cafes in the most unexpected places and sometimes no cafes where there should be.

Here are some food discoveries (both good and bad).

·         Fush and chups are delightful and Solo Senior has eaten them far too often. Snapper Jacks in Whitianga, Kaiaua Fisheries on the Seabird coast and Ocean Seafoods in Opotiki are big winners so far, although the competition is far from over

·         Katz Pyjamas in Katikati has the best cheese and onion scones ever

·         Drinking a beer by the open fire in the dining room of the Duke of Marlborough in Russell on a cold windy evening is one of life’s special moments

·         Date scones at Sally’s cafe in Russell

·         Paua fritters are disgusting! They are like deep fried green slime.

·         Pork roast at the Success cafe in Coromandel Town

Other random discoveries and questions

·         ‘Wh’ is usually pronounced ‘f’ (although not by everyone) and ‘a’ is often ‘u’ so Whakatane is an interesting name

·         Northland is described as the ‘winterless north’ so why are there more businesses closed there for the winter than anywhere else I have been in the North Island?

·         Why don’t toilet rolls unroll properly in public toilets and caravan parks?

·         Pubs/Taverns often do not have meals – they are gambling and drinking places

And, the BIG one (see photo below)

·         Is the grass always greener on the udder side of the fence? It certainly is this side of the ditch!

Solo Senior in the sun

Contrary to my last blog the weather pattern has been one of 4 days of wonderful weather. While at Papamoa Beach I spent a delightful day walking around Mount Maunganui (above)) and exploring Tauranga and Katikati (all western Bay of Plenty).

Then it was off to do a circuit of the Coromandel Peninsula. In the sunshine, the glorious vistas of beautiful bays, forests, stands of pampas grass, kauri trees all created the best photo opportunities. From Whitianga, I did a boat trip of the surrounding bays – magnificent rock formations, especially in Cathedral Cove, Hot Water Beach, caves, fish and a seal sunning himself on a rock.





The only ‘regret’ is staying overnight at the Mercury Bay motor-camp – Hahei Beach would have been a better alternative as it is right on the beach.

The roads have suffered from all the rain though, with washouts occurring every so often. Fortunately there is ample warning of such hazards! In the South Island a massive slip has blocked the main highway from Kerikeri to Blenheim, making transport of essentials into Christchurch just that more difficult.

Sulphurous solo senior

Whakatane is a very nice place – which is just as well as I had to stay a second day. Awakening to a wonderful t-shirt and beer day, I was anticipating the White Island tour I had planned, but it was not to be. After the heavy rain of the day before, the river mouth was clogged up with mud and so sea access was impossible. However there are some delightful walks around Whakatane, as well as fine coffee and food, so one does what one has to.

After the night at Ohope Beach, the tour was all go. What a unique and interesting experience. I have never been able to walk around an active volcano before – and the gas mask was not for show. At times the sulphurous steam is so intense any attempt to breathe normally ends in a fit of coughing. Loved the whole experience (including being able to do 3 hours on a smallish boat without suffering motion sickness, also a first) and it certainly was worth waiting the extra day even though my hair and clothes still smell of sulphur. Landing on the island from the boat was via a rubber ducky.

Then through kiwi country (see below left, featuring Roma) to the absolute pick of the Top Ten holiday parks (and also the cheapest – no logic there) at very pretty Papamoa Beach in Western Bay of Plenty. Despite the fact that it rained all night and into the next morning, it is now clear and the view from Roma is fabulous. Walking along the beach reminded me of childhood days in winter spent at the shack on the Henley South sandhills. I am learning that kiwi weather is very changeable this time of year with a 3 day cycle that goes a)wit b)grey but fine and c)beer and t-shirt.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Solo Senior goes sooky

There is no other way to describe the drive from Gisborne to Whakatane – it was pissing down relentlessly. Yet such is the beauty of this country, it was still a beautiful drive through Waineka Gorge. It is easy to take (and post) photos on days of spectacular weather, but to be fair one should also post photos from the not so good days. So here they are, taken from inside Roma, in between the action of the windscreen wipers.

Hence solo senior has reneged on a holiday park this time in favour of a motel. This is not to cast aspersions on Roma who is dry, warm and comfortable. It is more about not having to get out in the rain and empty grey and black water or plug in power cords, treading on seriously soggy grass all the time. Speaking of power cords, in Gisborne I managed to pull Roma’s out. It had obviously broken previously as it was gaffer-taped up and was pretty fragile. This could have been a disaster, except I chose to do this at a Top 10 Park where there happened to be electricians on site, replacing power connections to sites. One came over within 10 minutes, spent an hour fixing the cord properly and would take no money. He did however accept a nice bottle of Seppelts gold medal fortified red so everyone was most happy with the outcome.
So the washing is done, Roma is comfortable in the driveway, I have caught up with the latest on the earthquake and I get 15% off a tour of White Island tomorrow because I am here (below)

Solo Senior's Top Ten Tips for NZ Road Trip

Motor homing is full of new challenges – here are some tips:


1. Why doesn’t the gas cook top light when attached to auxiliary power?
Answer - because the auto starter things only work when connected to mains power.
Solution – get matches (and the auto starter things don’t always work when on mains either!)

2. Why isn’t the tap working?
Answer – because the pump is not switched on

3. How do I get the diesel cap off to get fuel?
Answer – consult manual then get help from the service station attendant who knows you have to push the key in as well as turn it. And then get help from the next attendant to help put the cap back after I at least got it off!

4. Emptying grey water and black water containers is the price of shower and toilet on board but has to be mastered

5. Feeling enthusiastic about wine tasting at 10am is difficult but not impossible

6. Don’t drive with the step still out

7. Don’t drive off with the power cord attached

8. It is easy to get bogged when trying to get onto a site in Department of Conservation sites this time of year

9. Don’t turning the orange lever when emptying the grey water (shower, sink etc) before the hose is positioned over the outlet

10. Kiwis are friendly and helpful to solo seniors (although they might think that said seniors should be home knitting and babysitting grandchildren!)

I finally got to see Art Deco Napier in beautiful sunny weather that showed off its lovely buildings to perfection. It was rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake (7.8) in just two years and was significantly improved, despite the beach front rising 2 metres! Christchurch faces some similar challenges.

So, after 2 days in Hawke Bay, I am heading for the bush.

 

Solo Senior Goes Bush

The motor home now has a name! It is henceforth to be called Roma, after a well-known South Australian former Governor, and reflecting what I am doing.


I am writing this in Roma, sipping a glass of Te Awa (Hawke Bay) unwooded chardonnay with the Rhythm and Blues section of my iPod playing “Blue Highway”. I am in Waikaremoana (W) which is near the middle of the triangle of Napier, Gisborne and Rotorua. Accessing W has been interesting – requiring about 25kms of driving along a gravel road. It is blowing a gale but Roma is in a sheltered spot. I want to do some walking but will need to choose low places rather than high (as well as wear wet weather gear). The campsite is a Department of Conservation one, but with powered sites. It is basic but with spectacular views – might get a better photo tomorrow if the weather clears!

Today’s photo is taken on the road between Napier and Gisborne and highlights a Kiwi fetish of hanging old shoes on fences. The cows give a nice rural element.

24 hours later:
It rained all night and was still going in the morning. The idea of a walk was not appealing but I was going to venture out anyway. Donned the wet weather gear – and it was wonderful. Cool, not cold (scarf, hat and gloves disappeared quickly); cloudy at first (this is after all the land of the long white cloud) but not raining anymore and with the sun trying to escape. All shiny and wet and beautiful. I walked to Anawanina via Beech Forest track (30 mins) and then climbed for an hour to Lake Waikareiti. And wouldn’t you know it – the sun was shining and lake was glistening. Sat in the sun outside the DoC hut eating lunch and chatting to Hubert, the friendly Frenchman. He took photos but they are on my phone (didn’t think I’d need camera – new lesson here). After returning I was seriously bedraggled but that’s why one has hot shower and power for hair dryer. Now looking gorgeous with nowhere to go.

Tomorrow it’s off to the Bay of Plenty – a long drive but want to get up there as I have now been on the road for a week!

Finally on the road

The van is easy to drive and I even managed to reverse it out of a long driveway using both mirrors and without hitting anything. I had intended to head North from Auckland but went South East to Taupo instead. This is surely what a road trip is all about – go with the mood, the weather, the opportunities, new information......

So, I am now writing this from a little cafe, River Valley, 18 kms from Napier. It is a glorious day (finally). The grass is bright green, there are sheep in the next paddock and one of them has just called back her two lambs who had strayed too far away. The lavender bushes are in bloom and fragrant, the food and coffee are wonderful. If you look closely at the photo below, you will see a sign next to the lily pond saying “Crocodiles Beware”. What’s not to love about New Zealand!

While in the Taupo region, I visited Huka Falls and walked around a geothermal area named Craters of the Moon. I would contend that the latter is more volatile and therefore more interesting than Rotorua – apparently there, people have opened too many outlets too cook their hungis, thus releasing pressure. What is life without a bit of pressure?

Senior and solo road trip: Getting organised

There are a plethora of motor homes varying wildly in price, comfort and quality. At my mature age, comfort and security were priorities. My priorities in selecting a van were as follows:


• Shower and toilet (realistic and pragmatic)
• Access to the cabin of the van from the driver’s seat (safer and desirable in inclement weather)
• A local company – better for support and access in emergencies
• No hidden extras – often the price quoted can increase significantly with hiring costs for equipment that should be standard and extra on-road costs
• Hands on training, with no time limit
• Good capacity to be off road for 2-3 days
• Ability to heat the cabin even when the motor is not running
• A proper, comfortable bed with warm bedding
• Ability to stand upright (my 60 year old back can’t cope with being hunched for 8 weeks!)
• Carpeted cabin
• Good quality equipment
• Value for money

I chose Wilderness Homes Base Jumper van and happily paid for a ‘No Excess’ insurance. The van is fresh and wonderfully equipped with extras like bedside reading lights, a flat screen TV, surround sound (I can use my iPod), a bathroom that becomes a drying room if required (with a mini clothes line), real wine glasses, coffee plunger. It includes bedding, picnic table and chairs and even a Frisbee. What more can a solo senior want?

I also took out ‘Top 10 Holiday Park’ membership, which gives a discount of 10% per night. I’d would like to do some freedom camping (that is, just pull up somewhere and camp) but locations are restricted and security can be an issue. The Department of Conservation has campsites with limited facilities in lovely locations and I may use some of these, but access and, again, security might be concerns.

With all this organised, I am ready to hit the road, Jill!
Here are some extra pics of the motor home - just needs a name now - any suggestions?

Why a road trip?

It is said that if you can remember the Sixties you weren't there. I can remember those years well - after all, they were my adolescent years. So I remember net petticoats, teased hair, parking the car all day on Aldinga Beach, the Vietnam War, conscription, Moratoriums on the University campus lawns at lunch time, live transmission of the Moon landing, and the death of President Kennedy. I remember standing in front of the Town Hall in Adelaide and seeing the Beatles up on the balcony; I even remember what I wore - black duffle coat, two way stretch lavender pants, pointy toe ankle boots with fur around the top.



Somehow I feel like I missed some of the action. I didn't inhale - in fact I didn't even smoke. I didn't protest the war, nor could I relate to the long haired, informed and outspoken protesters. My friends who were called up went without objecting. The free love, casual sex, flower power days passed me by. I married at 20 and had my first child at 21. I have no regrets about all this, but now, divorced and remarried, with five grandchildren, a Seniors' card, several tertiary qualifications, a successful professional career and 25 years of extensive world travel behind me, I found myself wanting to do a solo mobile home road trip.


The choice of destination was easy. New Zealand is a wonderful country - diverse, beautiful, safe and populated by friendly people with a quirky perspective on life. But how long? Two months seemed to be long enough to travel leisurely and extensively and to be exposed to a range of challenges, yet not so long that the grandchildren would forget who I was. After all, there was always Skype! And, if I had to leave my job to do the trip - so be it. Timing was a problem. The cost of hiring a mobile home varies enormously from season to season, with increases of roughly 80% from low to high, so high season was not an option for me (too crowded any way!). I would have preferred April/May but this was not possible so I settled for September/October, knowing the weather would not be perfect.

Choosing a motor home and getting mobile posed more challenges – stay tuned.