The WOW factor continues

The journey up the coast from Kaikoura to Blenheim was endlessly picturesque, snaking along a series of bays, complete with resident seals, moving inland to forests and farms and finally ending in Malborough wine country. No wonder the train journey from Christchurch to Picton, which includes this section, is described as one of the most scenic.

We spent a day roaming through the vines and wineries, again in glorious sunshine, sampling both food and wines. Our favourite cellar door, simply for its unique ambience, was Gibson’s Bridge. Watch the name – they are new but the wines are fine. In the first photo, note the eclectic mix of timber work bench, complete with vice, and chandelier. It all works though. Lester is looking a bit fuzzy though – and it was only the first winery!

We also visited Wairau, Georges Michel (pic. 2) for a seafood platter, Allan Scott (pic. 3) for lunch and St Clair (pic.4) for coffee and cake with some endearing chickens.

After Blenheim, Solo Senior is again solo because Lester boarded the bus for Christchurch and a flight back home, and as it happened, a size 5 earthquake while in his hotel!  Solo Senior is about to confront a different challenge – the drive to Golden Bay via Nelson and the notorious Takaka Hill, a steep winding climb up 790m and then down the other side on the journey to Pohara Beach in Golden Bay on the edge of Abel Tasman national park.

A change is as good as a holiday!

And there have been three changes:

1.     Solo Senior has had company

2.     The weather has been consistently wonderful

3.     I am now in the South Island

The company has been Brad and Barbara Fenner and Thomas, and also Lester (all pictured in Cromwell). It has been nice having some drinking, eating, walking and hot tub buddies.

Sunshine and warmth make this camping life a whole lot easier and more enjoyable.

In the South Island, we first visited Hamner Springs (where we avoided the hot thermal pools, deeming them too commercial, but loved the walking, particularly the Waterfall walk. It was a lot of up, but worth the effort.

Then we went on up the East Coast to Kaikoura. For many people Kaikoura is either a place to pass through or a place to take whale watching trips. We did neither and found it absolutely delightful. We completed the Peninsula walk - a three plus hour trip with huge coastal and rural vistas, a back-drop of snow capped mountains, colonies of seals, interesting rock formations and a picturesque beach for lunch.



The hills are alive with the sound of mooosic



We decided on an extra day because Seafest, Kaikoura’s big annual event was on. We were somewhat concerned the day before when we discovered the camp ground gradually filling up with tenting twenty-somethings who proceeded to trash themselves from 8:30am. The lot next to us knocked off at least 30 beers, a bottle of Jack Daniels, something blue and several joints) but we went out at 5:00pm for our own drinks and seafood dinner and when we returned they had all gone into town so things were quiet. We also enjoyed the food, wine and music at Seafest and were fascinated by the many people who dress up for the event.  

Our recommendations for eating in Kaikoura include Donegal’s Irish pub (discovered on a forest walk) and the historic Pier Hotel.

Northland

Bay of Islands

A beautiful place. I opted to stay in Russell because the van park is superbly located on a hill overlooking the Bay and across to Paihia. It is a more costly option as access is only by ferry ($35 return) but Roma needed to experience a ferry ride.
They say that the best way to see the Bay of Islands is by boat so I did exactly that and enjoyed the experience (see below).

The other special place there is Waitangi where the treaty that handed NZ to England was signed and it is easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around the actual site and learning the history. Forgot the camera that day so all pix are still on my phone.

Then I went on to Kerikeri and bought dolly pegs (for the grandkids) from the oldest house in NZ – again a lovely area.

West Coast

My final days in the North Island were spent in Hokianga Harbour – very picturesque, with giant sandhills but by then the strong winds had reached that area so it wasn’t worth lingering. However walking in the depth of the forests of the Kauri Coast as the wind roared overhead was much more enjoyable.

So after a few days on the campus of Kings College Auckland with Brad and Barbara Fenner (and a wonderful school camp – no kidding) Lester and I are off to the South Island to collect Roma 2.

NZ Food and other random discoveries and questions

Food is a big focus on a road trip and a well stocked fridge (and bar) is essential because you don’t always know what shopping opportunity lies ahead. NZ is generally great for food and coffee, with quirky little cafes in the most unexpected places and sometimes no cafes where there should be.

Here are some food discoveries (both good and bad).

·         Fush and chups are delightful and Solo Senior has eaten them far too often. Snapper Jacks in Whitianga, Kaiaua Fisheries on the Seabird coast and Ocean Seafoods in Opotiki are big winners so far, although the competition is far from over

·         Katz Pyjamas in Katikati has the best cheese and onion scones ever

·         Drinking a beer by the open fire in the dining room of the Duke of Marlborough in Russell on a cold windy evening is one of life’s special moments

·         Date scones at Sally’s cafe in Russell

·         Paua fritters are disgusting! They are like deep fried green slime.

·         Pork roast at the Success cafe in Coromandel Town

Other random discoveries and questions

·         ‘Wh’ is usually pronounced ‘f’ (although not by everyone) and ‘a’ is often ‘u’ so Whakatane is an interesting name

·         Northland is described as the ‘winterless north’ so why are there more businesses closed there for the winter than anywhere else I have been in the North Island?

·         Why don’t toilet rolls unroll properly in public toilets and caravan parks?

·         Pubs/Taverns often do not have meals – they are gambling and drinking places

And, the BIG one (see photo below)

·         Is the grass always greener on the udder side of the fence? It certainly is this side of the ditch!

Solo Senior in the sun

Contrary to my last blog the weather pattern has been one of 4 days of wonderful weather. While at Papamoa Beach I spent a delightful day walking around Mount Maunganui (above)) and exploring Tauranga and Katikati (all western Bay of Plenty).

Then it was off to do a circuit of the Coromandel Peninsula. In the sunshine, the glorious vistas of beautiful bays, forests, stands of pampas grass, kauri trees all created the best photo opportunities. From Whitianga, I did a boat trip of the surrounding bays – magnificent rock formations, especially in Cathedral Cove, Hot Water Beach, caves, fish and a seal sunning himself on a rock.





The only ‘regret’ is staying overnight at the Mercury Bay motor-camp – Hahei Beach would have been a better alternative as it is right on the beach.

The roads have suffered from all the rain though, with washouts occurring every so often. Fortunately there is ample warning of such hazards! In the South Island a massive slip has blocked the main highway from Kerikeri to Blenheim, making transport of essentials into Christchurch just that more difficult.

Sulphurous solo senior

Whakatane is a very nice place – which is just as well as I had to stay a second day. Awakening to a wonderful t-shirt and beer day, I was anticipating the White Island tour I had planned, but it was not to be. After the heavy rain of the day before, the river mouth was clogged up with mud and so sea access was impossible. However there are some delightful walks around Whakatane, as well as fine coffee and food, so one does what one has to.

After the night at Ohope Beach, the tour was all go. What a unique and interesting experience. I have never been able to walk around an active volcano before – and the gas mask was not for show. At times the sulphurous steam is so intense any attempt to breathe normally ends in a fit of coughing. Loved the whole experience (including being able to do 3 hours on a smallish boat without suffering motion sickness, also a first) and it certainly was worth waiting the extra day even though my hair and clothes still smell of sulphur. Landing on the island from the boat was via a rubber ducky.

Then through kiwi country (see below left, featuring Roma) to the absolute pick of the Top Ten holiday parks (and also the cheapest – no logic there) at very pretty Papamoa Beach in Western Bay of Plenty. Despite the fact that it rained all night and into the next morning, it is now clear and the view from Roma is fabulous. Walking along the beach reminded me of childhood days in winter spent at the shack on the Henley South sandhills. I am learning that kiwi weather is very changeable this time of year with a 3 day cycle that goes a)wit b)grey but fine and c)beer and t-shirt.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Solo Senior goes sooky

There is no other way to describe the drive from Gisborne to Whakatane – it was pissing down relentlessly. Yet such is the beauty of this country, it was still a beautiful drive through Waineka Gorge. It is easy to take (and post) photos on days of spectacular weather, but to be fair one should also post photos from the not so good days. So here they are, taken from inside Roma, in between the action of the windscreen wipers.

Hence solo senior has reneged on a holiday park this time in favour of a motel. This is not to cast aspersions on Roma who is dry, warm and comfortable. It is more about not having to get out in the rain and empty grey and black water or plug in power cords, treading on seriously soggy grass all the time. Speaking of power cords, in Gisborne I managed to pull Roma’s out. It had obviously broken previously as it was gaffer-taped up and was pretty fragile. This could have been a disaster, except I chose to do this at a Top 10 Park where there happened to be electricians on site, replacing power connections to sites. One came over within 10 minutes, spent an hour fixing the cord properly and would take no money. He did however accept a nice bottle of Seppelts gold medal fortified red so everyone was most happy with the outcome.
So the washing is done, Roma is comfortable in the driveway, I have caught up with the latest on the earthquake and I get 15% off a tour of White Island tomorrow because I am here (below)